1. Please note effective Jan 27, 2020 the BCNL Public Forums will no longer allow new threads or comments. The content will remain for review for the time being as we work towards creating an up-to-date FAQ based on the information shared in the forums. Registered BCNL customers will still have access to the Members Only Forums where we will be pleased to support you.

How to Get Killer Yields

Discussion in 'Indoor Growing' started by bcnl_joyce, Nov 4, 2014.

  1. bcnl_joyce

    bcnl_joyce Administrator Staff Member

    Ah, the age-old question: how can one consistently get awesome yields?

    You can have beautiful lamps, you can have strong nutrients, and you can have a hydroponics set-up that Cheech and Chong would be proud of. But do all these things result in consistency? Do all these things result in mind-numbing yields?

    For beginners, the following is a set of tips to follow so you can skip that awkward trial and error stage. To the pros, here’s how to further improve your set-up.

    Here’s nine ways you can increase your yields by as much as 50%:

    #1: Find true f-1 hybrid seeds
    F-1 hybrid plants are easier to clone, have faster rooting times, have shorter veg times, and churn out bigger yields. If timed right, you can be as efficient as to grow an extra crop or two per year with a shorter to average flowering strain in optimal conditions.

    #2: Create the optimal conditions
    The “optimal conditions” will vary depending on how your set up is, but obviously, your plants want to exist in the best conditions possible. Take things like temperature and moisture into consideration, as any stress could reduce your yield, and even the quality of your “tomatoes.”

    #3: Start with a good strain
    If you’re having trouble growing, it could have to do with your strain. There are tried and true strains out there that promise higher yields, such as Master Kush, Northern Lights, West Coast Sour Diesel, and the Purple Pain Killer. Not only will you get a bigger yield, but these are also faster growing and grower friendly strains that stand up well to stress.

    #4: Employ some good stress techniques
    Shock ripening, shock pruning, shock flowering, shock messages, and flushing are great ways to quickly stress out your plants so they can acclimate to their new environment.

    Shock ripening promises to enhance yield, aroma, and potency, and is done by turning the lights off and giving plants three to five days pitch black with the coldest ice water possible.

    Shock pruning is done during the second week of flowering. Strip off all lower leaves and branches leaving only four nodes at the top of the plant. This ensures all the plants energy goes to where all the light energy is. It increases airflow, decreases pests like bugs and mold, increase yield, and quality dramatically.

    Shock flowering is when you leave your plants in darkness for 24-36 hours to initiate flowering. After seven to 10 days, you should see flowers, and gain at least an extra week of budding as opposed to stretching. This results in more energy going into flowering and production.

    Sending shock messages to your plants means that you’re gently twist and bend your branches individually and the entire plant twice a day during the veg stage and once a day in the flower stage for two weeks, until buds show. This results in thicker, sturdier, more vigorous, and high yielding plants. This technique activates the plants immune system. Thicker stalks will deliver more nutrients, hold more weight, handle more stress from bugs, fungus and other environmental factors, and grow bigger buds.

    Flushing is a stress technique used in a hydroponics system. Plants are flushed with plain water for 48 hours every week (as opposed 24 hours). Plants will grow exponentially when they are given a break from the nutrients, and are forced to use up any stored in them. They also grow when the nutrients are reintroduced to the system.

    #5: Use good nutrients and boosters
    If you want good plants, use good nutrients. It matters a lot to your plants. Find something that is low in phosphorous (P), as P will most likely stress your plants out as opposed to increasing the yield. Your plants will prefer Nitrogen (N), Calcium (Ca), and Potassium (K). CNS 17, advanced nutrients, and Med-Man brand boosters are all incredibly popular, plant-friendly additives and nutrients in the community.

    #6: Introduce foliar feeding
    Plants love being fed through the leaves. Find a good foliar that can be used in veg or bloom stages, or find a proven two-part veg/bloom foliar that also has proven results. This will decrease veg time and stress, increasing bloom time over the year for more yields.

    #7: Be prepared like a boy scout
    Have your next run of plants or clones ready before you harvest. You can be more efficient this way so that when the plants get harvested, fresh plants can be replanted. This means more crops per year.

    #8: Know your room and strain
    Build a rapport with your environment. Strain, space, outdoor climate, nutrients—know them like the back of their hand: what makes them tick, what stresses them out, etc. This way, you can be prepared for anything, easily preventing and predicting outcomes. Be super prepared and organized, and keep notes and calendars to monitor all activities and their consequential outcomes.

    #9: Try sealing the room with CO2
    Sealing the room allows total control over the space. No CO2is wasted, and no pests can enter or leave. Rh% is controlled with a dehumidifier, fresh air is controlled with CO2 (bottled or burned), and temperature is controlled by air conditioning. Each device should have a digital and dialed monitor to keep things exactly how you want them to be. CO2has been shown to increase yields from 25-50% in some cases. Keep it all in for the most benefits. But also know when to turn it down or even off in the ripening stages to maintain quality integrity.

    So, there they are—some tips for better yields. Got tips on how to get killer yields? Share ‘em.
    docgreen, oldhippy, JoJo and 5 others like this.
  2. BAYthaGOD

    BAYthaGOD New Member

    Good post, I like and have used the first 2 stress techniques, I usually just lightly hold the plants down as if I were tying them down the day after feeding and seems to work, also "super cropping" pinching the branches right up to the bud site..
    ON1 and bcnl_joyce like this.
  3. bcnl_joyce

    bcnl_joyce Administrator Staff Member

    Interesting tip, thanks @BAYthaGOD!
    BAYthaGOD likes this.
  4. ON1

    ON1 New Member

    Once you get the big yield what is the best way to dry and cure ?
  5. warren

    warren New Member

    How far along in the flowering stage can you use the shock ripening method and will it send my flowering plants back into the veg stage
  6. warren

    warren New Member

  7. AK-47

    AK-47 Member

    Shock pruning is done during the second week of flowering. Strip off all lower leaves and branches leaving only four nodes at the top of the plant. This ensures all the plants energy goes to where all the light energy is. It increases airflow, decreases pests like bugs and mold, increase yield, and quality dramatically.


    Med-man method step and the law of 4 step 8 – shock pruning - shock pruning makes for the biggest most dense nugs that have no leaf to trim and no pop corn to deal with once harvest comes around. Plants can stretch 200% by the time they ripen. This method increased light and air flow whilst eliminating work and increasing weight and quality. Text book med-man method. This happens at weeks 2-3 of the bud cycle. Subject to strain.. the plants should look naked and almost sick when done properly.
    Most optimal conditions – keep the best 4 out of the 8 branches. Strip off all but 4 nodes at the tops of each branch
    Optimal conditions - keep the best 4 of the 6-8 branches. Strip off all but the top 4 leaf
    Nodes.
    Semi optimal conditions – keep the best 4 of 6 branches. Strip off all but the top 4 leafs/nodes.
    Least optimal conditions - with the 4 branches, strip off all but the top 4 leafs/nodes.
  8. OneSlayer

    OneSlayer I Have The Munchies

    Great post...
    Information that I will use time and time again.
    And something I don't have to look up.
    It's here ... Love it
  9. THC_Ski

    THC_Ski Member

    I'm trying to find out a sure fire method but I do know u only get one shot. It also depends on ur strain. I think I was expecting OG Cush flavor & aroma from pineapple chunk. When u find out let me know
  10. Violet Robinson

    Violet Robinson New Member

    Thanks for the information.
  11. Jkush

    Jkush Did I really try that?

    Hi Joyce,
    Great post Thank you. I have a question on the flush. I have been doing 7 days of nutes then 48 hours of flush then moving onto the subsequent week. I was wondering if you recommended doing 5 days of nutes with 2 days of flush to round out the week or if I am doing it right?

    Thanks!
    Farmer J likes this.
  12. sue

    sue need a hand?

    hey j! I do 7 day nute ,2 day flush! it really is the best.
    Marc likes this.
  13. Marc

    Marc Well .... it will either work or it won't

    Me too it also cuts out 2 cycles of nutes that way
    sue likes this.
  14. Green Doctor

    Green Doctor Retired and lovin' it.

    So you're on a 9 day week? Doesn't that add (8 X 2 = 16) two extra weeks? I've been under the impression
    that flush is only for week 8 of flower. Oh boy this is complicated. When I toured Medicine Man in Denver, and asked a question,
    the response was, "OH! Are you a grower?" Wife and I shook our heads NO! ha! And we never got our question answered.
    The tour guides were the 'bring the donuts' type sales. they didn't know shit.
    sue likes this.
  15. McLovin

    McLovin Free Old Hippie

    It doesn't matter how often you change nutes it's still going to take the same 8-10 weeks of flowering time. Marc is right about savings on the nutes.
    gregsta, oldhippy and CannaHippie like this.
  16. Jkush

    Jkush Did I really try that?

    True! That's what I thought too. I've been doing the 7/2 and getting good results but always looking to go to the n xt level. Thank you all!
  17. Can anybody please weigh in with recommendations pro or con between SOUR DIESEL vs PINK or Purple (Painkiller) KUSH for a first grow?

    Farmer J likes this.
  18. Farmer J

    Farmer J @onelunggrows

    First of all, welcome to the forum.
    Here is information about West Coast Sour Diesel:
    http://en.seedfinder.eu/strain-info/West_Coast_Sour_Diesel/Med-Man_Brand/
    Here is information about Purple Painkiller Kush:
    http://en.seedfinder.eu/strain-info/Purple_Pain_Killer/Med-Man_Brand/

    After reading both, it seems PPK has a faster flowering time than WCSD. WCSD has a very strong scent and the breeder cautions that the smell maybe too strong for a carbon filter to neutralize it. If you want to grow WCSD, a factor you should consider would be if smell is going to be a problem. In the original post @bcnl_joyce says that they are both easy to grow, high yielding strains. She doesn't post here often so I am not sure how you can ask her more about her experiences with the two strains.
    docgreen likes this.
  19. 420Greenthumb

    420Greenthumb New Member

    Be prepared like the boyscouts! That is awesome. Do boy scouts like cannabis? I do love my LED grow lights hehe
    SecretSanta and Farmer J like this.
  20. Hey thanks! ONE LUNG ~ Yes, I read that info before posting here so my question was more about relative difficulty growing and because I've been led to believe Indicas like the Purple Kush are a lot easier to grow than Sativas like the West Coast Sour D. particularly in a hydroponic system like the Bloombox. :) Of course, now after a few days sampling flowers of both strains grown by the seed provider (in soil though) have decided I like them BOTH(!) :rolleyes: D'oh

    The WCSD is a nice switch because I haven't been seeing as much sativa lately also its still a hybrid so not like one of those super agitated hyper sativas

    Does anybody want to chime in on relative challenges of growing sativa vs indicas in a Bloombox or is that like a dumb FAQ Newbie question and there's already a gazillion threads about that?


    Farmer J likes this.

Share This Page