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How to Get Killer Yields

Discussion in 'Indoor Growing' started by bcnl_joyce, Nov 4, 2014.

  1. James Marsden

    James Marsden Well-Known Member

    I've toped to inner nodes before to avoid toping out. Looks like this; 15322883185131517410472.jpg 1532288425964-1630744288.jpg 15322885063951221725275.jpg
    docgreen and SecretSanta like this.
  2. Green Doctor

    Green Doctor Retired and lovin' it.

    I never top when in flower, I only top in veg. I train for 4 -6 colas, then lollipop at week 3 flower. In flower, I only prune fan leaves.
    docgreen and SecretSanta like this.
  3. James Marsden

    James Marsden Well-Known Member

    Always aim for toping in veg
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  4. Bulbasaur

    Bulbasaur New Member

    From what I understand, Pinching and FIMing are basically the same thing in cutting off millimeters of the very top where your new growth is to encourage the colas directly under it to grow and bud in your flowering phase. (FIM is taking off slightly less) Topping is when you cut the whole top of the plant off maybe a few inches or more from the newest growth on the top of the plant (mostly done to control height). Im still a n00b so I could be off...
    docgreen likes this.
  5. McLovin

    McLovin Free Old Hippie

    Correct. When topping, it should snap off. Don't cut it. Peel back a little bit and with a finger push the head until it snaps.
    docgreen likes this.
  6. Bulbasaur

    Bulbasaur New Member

    What's the logic/biology behind this? seems to me a clean cut would be less harmful than a jagged snap. Also, going back to the lighting questions on Page 2 and 3, Whats the logic behind mounting T5 lights to the bottom of the BCNL grow boxes near the roots. As far as I know, no plant has photo-receptors in anywhere but the topside of the leaves, so having a light source from underneath is just wasted electricity. Thoughts?
    Farmer J likes this.
  7. By these definitions above, I was pinching, though José called it topping:
    removing just the bud site between two fan leaves
    FIM'd (*fuck I missed) is when I cut it less cleanly and by result ended up with even MORE bud sites ~ which just like the name - I inadvertently did that and ended up with good results.
    Like clockwork, I got the very first signs of developing bud sites (white pistules(s?) /hairs) the very next day after the W3 Flower soup change, so figured I wouldn't risk pinching again, though I'd still like to do at least that one stretcher but don' want to take the risk that it won't bounce back at this late date
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2018
  8. McLovin

    McLovin Free Old Hippie

    It should snap off cleanly, not jagged. I'm not a biologist but I'm sure someone can enlighten us. My experience so far has been T5s do nothing for the lower buds to harden them. The light is reflected to be absorbed and some use to help stretching as a training method. I have mine off because of summer. They do add heat. For some, that could be beneficial at times.
    docgreen and SecretSanta like this.
  9. JoseR

    JoseR Live everyday as it was your last

  10. McLovin

    McLovin Free Old Hippie

    Bulbasaur and docgreen like this.
  11. docgreen

    docgreen IG: @rangi_kijani

    Incredibly helpful. Tyvm @McLovin :)
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  12. McLovin

    McLovin Free Old Hippie

    For me, it's simpler. It's the only way I've ever topped.
    docgreen likes this.
  13. docgreen

    docgreen IG: @rangi_kijani

    I like simple, and can see how this would reduce the likelihood of slowing growth compared to more “invasive methods.”

    I’m still trying to make one piece of the puzzle fit within my little brain ... in many of the “topping” tutorials, it’s common to read that one should grow the plant to 5-6 nodes, then “top” down to the 3rd node, which would require removing (with an instrument) the uppermost mainstem.

    I could see how both approaches to topping could be of value depending on the goal. But Im not feeling confident in my understanding.
    Bulbasaur likes this.
  14. McLovin

    McLovin Free Old Hippie

    With a lot of methods you need to take where they're coming from and how they grow. It's what works for them. There's more than one way to skin a cat. Due to the plant's resiliency, they're able to grow in a box, and what we're trying to accomplish in them, pretty easily. Sharing tips and tricks is the best part of this forum.
    docgreen likes this.
  15. Newbie Doobie

    Newbie Doobie Free Old Hippy

    This is how I do it also
    docgreen likes this.
  16. Farmer J

    Farmer J @onelunggrows

    The hormones to encourage growth (auxins) are abundant in the perpetual tip of an untouched cannabis plant. The rest of the plant is lacking these auxins in comparison and grows at a slower rate. Topping/fim encourages enhanced auxin production to the nodes below the cut. In the case of fim , the nodes are only severed. The auxins are divided between all the new growth that was cut. The stress causes the newest nodes to grow at the same rate. If the nodes are decussate (symmetrical) then you can get 4 tops, if the nodes are alternating (asymmetrical) you will usually have 3.
    Fim I suggest cut cleanly with scissors. Topping I pinch with my fingers.
    McLovin, Bulbasaur and docgreen like this.
  17. James Marsden

    James Marsden Well-Known Member

    We were always taught to use a razor blade to make the cut, or a good quality pair of bypass pruners. Using sicors will crush the stem (at least that's the theory). Fiming requires you to crush the meri stem to delay growth forcing the hormones or auxins back down the stems. The plant then thinks it's lost it main stem and will send more energy to the outer branches to try and establish a new main leader. Once the meri stem heals ar begins to regrow the growth top hormones level back out to their respective levels in each stalk.
    Bulbasaur, Farmer J and docgreen like this.
  18. donna becker

    donna becker New Member

    has anyone had their 125w CFL burn out in their BB? Im on my second one in 4 months. At 75$ a pop...and pot is less than 60$ an oz where I live... this is getting $$$. Also to make matters worse a male suddenly developed in my flower chamber... well I guess Im gonna be a gramma again.

    Any suggestions re: the 125W bulb? The first time it went out after a week... I called BC and since bulbs arent on warranty they suggested I get one from Amazon. Im only vegging one small plant and I have Basil growing on that side so maybe I will just let everything so I'm not out my entire crop . Oh..also the ballast in the flower side had to be replaced already..at least that was free. Ive only had it on since Dec so a lot of hmmmmmms already.
  19. James Marsden

    James Marsden Well-Known Member

    First off their not being fair. That bulb should have had at least one month warranty. If I go into my hydro store and buy a bulb they write the date on it. I have one year from that day. Secondly by bulb blew up the ballast in the box. After fighting with the company who makes the bulbs for a month BCNL took care of me and warrentied that bulb. I would fathem the bulb was more than a year old.
    I'm sadened by the choices being made throuht the company. They should have at least investigated the issue. To me it would appear you are having power supply issues. Is your box protected by a GFI and surge protector? Ideally the whole line would be GFI protected and then a surge protector at the power box. You shouldn't be out a ballast and a bulb in less than a year either way.
    Farmer J and Newbie Doobie like this.
  20. Farmer J

    Farmer J @onelunggrows

    Yeah I have had 125w cfl last year's, now I run a 250w in the producer, it works just fine for me
    James Marsden and docgreen like this.

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